What Is a Pleated Skirt? Types and How to Style One

A pleated skirt is a skirt whose fullness comes from folds of fabric pressed or stitched into the waistband, rather than from gathers or a flared cut. It is one of the most useful skirts you can own: it moves when you walk, sits flat at the waist, and dresses up or down with nothing more than a change of top. This guide, updated for 2026, explains what makes a skirt a pleated skirt, the main types you will see on the rail, which fabrics hold pleats best, and how to style one for day, evening and travel.

What is a pleated skirt?

Every pleated skirt starts with the same idea: a length of fabric much wider than your waist is folded back on itself at even intervals, and those folds are fixed at the top so the skirt fits at the waist and opens up below. The folds, not the cut, create the swing. That is what separates a pleated skirt from a gathered skirt, where fabric is simply bunched onto a waistband, and from an A-line or circle skirt, where the flare comes from the pattern shape.

If you want to understand the folds themselves, how each pleat is formed, pressed and set, our guide What is pleating? Knife, box and sunray pleats explained covers the technique in detail. This article is about the garment: which pleated skirt to choose, and what to wear with it.

Types of pleated skirts

Pleated skirts are usually named after the pleat they use. The sewing and pattern company By Hand London sets out the basic pleat types: knife pleats face one direction, box pleats are two knife pleats facing away from each other, inverted box pleats face towards each other, accordion pleats are narrow knife pleats, and sunray pleats are fine at the top and widen towards the hem. Here is what each looks like as a skirt:

1. Knife-pleated skirt. Sharp folds all turned the same way give clean vertical lines and a neat, even swing. The classic kilt and school-uniform skirt are knife pleated, and it is the most versatile office-to-dinner option.
2. Box-pleated skirt. Wider, flat panels on the surface give a fuller, more structured shape that stands slightly away from the body. It reads crisp and a little preppy, and works best in cotton, denim or suiting fabrics.
3. Inverted box-pleated skirt. The folds meet on the outside, so the skirt looks flat and tailored until you move and the fullness opens from behind. Often used as a single centre-front or centre-back pleat on pencil and A-line skirts.
4. Accordion-pleated skirt. Very narrow, even pleats running from waist to hem. These are the fluid, swishy midis you see in satin and chiffon, and the pleats are almost always heat-set.
5. Sunray-pleated skirt. Fine at the waist and fanning wider to the hem, like rays. It is cut from a circle, so it has the most movement of any pleated skirt, which makes it a favourite for evening and dancing.
6. Pleated midi and maxi skirts. Length changes the mood more than pleat type. A pleated midi is the everyday workhorse; a pleated maxi in a light fabric is resort wear at its easiest, cool in heat and elegant with flat sandals.

Which fabrics hold pleats best?

How long the pleats last depends on the fibre. Synthetic and blended fabrics can be permanently heat-set, which is why so many fine-pleated skirts are polyester. The ASU FIDM Museum's account of Issey Miyake's Pleats Please explains how those garments are placed between sheets of paper and run through a heat-set pleating machine; because the textile is polyester, the pleats are permanent and hold their shape through the wash. The line launched in 1993 and is still the benchmark for travel-proof pleating.

Natural fibres behave differently. Pleats pressed into cotton or linen look crisp and breathe beautifully in heat, but they soften with wear and need re-pressing after washing. Silk and silk blends take a softer, more fluid pleat that drapes rather than snaps. Georgette, chiffon and satin-finish fabrics give the liquid, catch-the-light movement that makes accordion and sunray skirts so good for evening. As a rule: heat-set blends for travel and low effort, natural fibres for texture and breathability, with a little more care.

How to style a pleated skirt for day, evening and travel

The golden rule is balance. A pleated skirt already has volume and movement below the waist, so keep the top half closer to the body and simpler in pattern. Tuck tops in or choose cropped lengths so the waistband, where the pleats start, stays visible.

Day. Pair a knife-pleated or pleated midi skirt with a tucked-in cotton shirt or a plain fitted top, and finish with flat sandals, loafers or clean trainers. A denim jacket or a light cardigan takes it into cooler mornings.

Evening. A satin or georgette accordion or sunray skirt with a silk camisole or a fitted bodysuit is effortless dressing. Let the skirt carry the look: one statement earring or a metallic sandal is enough. For a more polished finish, add a cropped jacket.

Travel and holidays. This is where the pleated skirt earns its place. A heat-set pleated midi rolls into a corner of your suitcase and comes out ready to wear. Wear it with a swimsuit top and a cover-up by the pool, with a linen shirt for sightseeing, and with a silk top for dinner, three looks from one skirt. A pleated maxi also covers you for temple and church visits on the same day as the beach.

“Let the pleats do the talking: keep the top plain and fitted, and the skirt will look expensive every time,” notes fashion designer Ramola Bachchan, whose label is cut from XS to 8XL.

Pleated skirts for every size. Because pleats spread fullness evenly and open with movement, a pleated skirt is one of the most forgiving shapes on curvier figures. Choose a flat-front or yoke waistband so the pleats begin below the widest part of the tummy, pick fine knife or accordion pleats over wide box pleats if you want less volume at the hip, and go for midi or maxi lengths that fall in one long, vertical line.

How to care for a pleated skirt

Always read the care label first, because pleats are set in different ways. As general practice: hand-wash or use a gentle cold cycle in a mesh laundry bag, skip the fabric softener, and never tumble-dry. Do not iron heat-set pleats flat; if they soften, twist the damp skirt lengthwise along the pleat lines, or roll it, and let it dry. Pressed pleats in cotton, linen or silk can be re-pressed one pleat at a time with a pressing cloth, or taken to a dry cleaner who does pleating. To store or pack, roll the skirt along the direction of the pleats or hang it by the waistband with clips, rather than folding across the pleats.

Ready to add one to your wardrobe? Browse First Resort skirts, including pleated styles, or pair a skirt into a matching set. For more movement-led pieces, see the vacation edit and new arrivals. One price across XS to 8XL, free shipping across India, and we ship worldwide.

Frequently asked questions

What is a pleated skirt called?

It is usually named after its pleat: a knife-pleated, box-pleated, accordion-pleated or sunray-pleated skirt. A kilt is a traditional knife-pleated skirt, and very fine permanent pleating is sometimes called plissé.

What is the difference between a pleated skirt and a gathered skirt?

A pleated skirt has fabric folded into regular, even pleats fixed at the waist, so it sits flat and swings from the folds. A gathered skirt has fabric bunched onto the waistband without set folds, so it puffs out more softly from the top.

Do pleated skirts suit plus-size women?

Yes. Fine knife or accordion pleats spread fullness evenly and fall in long vertical lines. Choose a flat-front or yoke waistband and a midi or maxi length for the most streamlined look.

How do you keep pleats in a skirt after washing?

Wash cold and gently, avoid fabric softener and the tumble dryer, then twist or roll the damp skirt along the pleats and let it dry. Heat-set polyester pleats hold on their own; cotton, linen and silk pleats may need re-pressing.

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Also read: What Is Pleating? Knife, Box and Sunray Pleats, Explained  ·  Pleated Palazzo Pants: How to Style  ·  How to Style a Floral Maxi Skirt