What Is Chikankari? Lucknow's White-on-White Embroidery, Explained

Chikankari is the white-on-white hand embroidery of Lucknow: fine floral stitching on sheer cotton, worked partly from the back so that the motifs glow through the cloth like shadows. If you are wondering what makes a chikankari kurta different from any other embroidered one, this guide explains where chikankari comes from, how a piece is made, the stitches that define it, why the real thing costs what it does, and how to tell hand chikankari from machine work. Updated October 2026.

What is chikankari, and which city is it from?

Chikankari is Lucknow's own craft. Wikipedia calls it a traditional embroidery style from Lucknow, India, and notes that its main market is the old city's Chowk. Asia InCH, an encyclopedia of intangible heritage, describes it as essentially a white-on-white embroidery, worked in untwisted white cotton, rayon or silk thread on fine cotton.

The craft is protected. "Lucknow Chikan Craft" is Geographical Indication application no. 119, filed in December 2007 and certified on 2 December 2008, covering Uttar Pradesh.

Where chikankari came from

Its origins are argued over. The best-known story credits the Mughal empress Nur Jahan; Wikipedia records that the most popular origin story credits Noor Jahan, wife of Jahangir, with introducing it. Craft writer Laila Tyabji traces it instead to the white-on-white embroidery of Shiraz, brought by Persian nobles. Writing for Sahapedia, Isha Priya Singh sums up the consensus: its origin—from Persia or Bengal—remains debated, but its refinement in Lucknow under the Nawabs is not.

Museum records add another layer. The V&A notes that fine chikan work was also made in Bengal, where it was probably developed for the European market, before production moved to Lucknow and its court. Asia InCH dates its peak to the late 19th century in Lucknow.

How chikankari is made

A chikankari piece passes through several hands. Wikipedia explains that the piece begins with one or more pattern blocks used to print the design, which is embroidered and then washed away:

1. Cutting and printing. The garment is cut, then the design is stamped onto it with wooden or brass blocks in a temporary colour. The V&A records that designs are printed with wooden or brass blocks using fugitive colours.
2. Embroidery. The embroiderer follows the printed lines with needle and thread. In Lucknow this work resides predominantly with women, many of them stitching at home.
3. Washing and finishing. The piece is washed to remove every trace of the printed guide, then finished.

It is slow. The Times of India's style desk contrasts a piece embroidered by skilled artisans over several days with machine work done in hours, and densely worked pieces take far longer. That time is the main reason genuine chikankari is expensive.

The chikankari stitches

What makes chikankari chikankari is not white thread but its stitches. Asia InCH explains that true chikankari is limited to a fixed repertoire of stitches, each used only in a certain way. The V&A counts between thirty and forty different types of stitch, though Sahapedia notes that the everyday repertoire has shrunk to just eight to ten predominant stitches. The ones you will see most often:

• Bakhia (shadow work). Worked on the wrong side of sheer fabric, so the right side shows a soft shadow. Wikipedia explains that the name comes from the fact that the embroidery is done on wrong side and we see its shadow.
• Tepchi. A long running stitch that outlines shapes and serves as a base for other work.
• Murri. Small, rice-shaped knots used for the centres of flowers; Wikipedia calls it the oldest and most sought-after form of chikankari, and notes that fewer artisans now do it.
• Phanda. A smaller, rounder knot, often clustered.
• Jali. Openwork made by easing the threads of the fabric apart and holding the holes with tiny stitches, creating a mesh. The V&A describes it as pulled-thread work or jali.
• Hool. A fine detached eyelet, often at the heart of a flower.

Motifs are mostly floral: flowers, creepers, leaves, paisleys. Modern chikankari is also worked in colour, and sometimes combined with mukaish metal work, sequins or mirrors.

How to spot hand chikankari vs machine work

Machine "chikan" is cheap and everywhere. The first two checks come from the Times of India's style desk; the rest follow from how the craft is made:

• Turn it over first. Hand embroidery rarely looks perfectly neat from behind; expect small thread ends and slight variation. Machine work has a uniform, almost too-clean back.
• Compare two flowers. In hand work no two motifs are exactly alike. Identical petals, repeated with complete precision, mean a machine.
• Look for the shadow. Real bakhia glows through sheer cloth from the back. Machine imitations sit on top of the fabric.
• Check the fabric. Chikankari belongs on light, breathable cloth such as cotton, mulmul, muslin, georgette or chiffon. Heavy, stiff fabric with dense flat stitching is a warning sign.
• Look for the knots. Murri and phanda are hard to fake well. Their presence is a good sign.

How to wear chikankari

Chikankari is made for heat. A white chikankari kurta with white or pastel trousers is the classic Indian summer outfit, and it works just as well on holiday, with linen trousers or over a slip dress. Keep the colours soft and let the texture show; chikankari disappears under loud prints or heavy jewellery.

“Chikankari is meant to be seen up close, so keep it white or pastel, wear it by day, and choose fine silver or pearls over anything heavy.” — Ramola Bachchan, fashion designer and founder of First Resort.

For more on how chikankari compares with zardozi, aari and other techniques, see our guide to types of hand embroidery. First Resort does not make chikankari, but our whites and kurtas sit in the same summer wardrobe.

Frequently asked questions

Which city is famous for chikankari?

Lucknow, in Uttar Pradesh. Its old Chowk market is the centre of the trade, and "Lucknow Chikan Craft" is a registered Geographical Indication.

Why is chikankari so expensive?

Because it is done entirely by hand, stitch by stitch, after the design has been block-printed, and then washed and finished. A single garment takes several days, and dense work with murri knots or jali takes much longer.

How many stitches are there in chikankari?

The V&A counts between 30 and 40, though only eight to ten are in everyday use. The best known are bakhia (shadow work), tepchi, murri, phanda, jali and hool.

Is chikankari only white?

Traditionally yes: white thread on white muslin. Today it is worked on pastels and brighter colours too, and in coloured threads, though white remains the classic.

How do you wash chikankari?

Hand-wash it gently in cold water with a mild detergent, don't wring it, dry it in the shade and iron it on the reverse so the stitches stay raised.

Shop the Collection

Also shop: Whites  ·  Kurtas  ·  Cotton  ·  Tunics  ·  Indo-Western

Also read: Types of hand embroidery  ·  What is jamdani?  ·  Cutwork craft styling guide